Okay, so I’ve been messing around with F1 2023, and let me tell you, the Baku circuit is a beast. I wanted to share my setup experience, hopefully, it helps some of you out there.
First off, I fired up the game and jumped straight into Time Trial mode. Why? Because you gotta get a feel for the track without the pressure of other cars bumping you around. I did a few laps just to get a handle on the car’s default behavior. Let me tell you, it was sliding all over the place, especially in those tight corners Baku is famous for.
Next, I started playing around with the Aerodynamics. I figured, more downforce would help, right? So I bumped up the front and rear wing angles. I did a few more laps. It was sticking better, but I was losing a bit of speed on the straights, obviously.
- Front Wing Aero: I ended up setting it to around 30. It felt like a good balance between grip and top speed.
- Rear Wing Aero: I pushed this a bit higher, to about 35. The back end felt much more planted coming out of those slow corners.
Then came the Transmission. Baku’s got those long straights followed by sudden braking zones. I wanted a setup that could handle both.
- Differential Adjustment On Throttle: I locked it up pretty tight, to around 85. I wanted all that power going to the wheels when I slammed the throttle coming out of the corners.
- Differential Adjustment Off Throttle: I set it to around 55. This one was tricky. I didn’t want the back end stepping out when I was off the gas.
After that, it was time for Suspension Geometry. This is where things got a little complicated. I’m no expert, but I’ve found that camber and toe settings can make a huge difference in how the car handles.
- Front Camber: Lowered it to -2.60, seemed to help with turn-in.
- Rear Camber: I kept it around -1.20 to help stabilize the back.
- Front Toe: 0.05 gave me better stability on the straights.
- Rear Toe: Increased it a bit, to around 0.35 for better traction.
Suspension was next. This track is bumpy, so I softened up the suspension to help absorb those kerbs.
- Front Suspension: I lowered this to around 5.
- Rear Suspension: I also set it at 6, just a bit harder than the front.
- Anti-Roll Bars: Made these a bit softer, 3 in the front, 7 in the rear.
- Ride Height: Kept it low, 35 in the front, 40 in the rear. Maximize that straight-line speed, you know?
Brakes. Baku is tough on brakes, so I needed a setup that wouldn’t fade too quickly.
- Brake Pressure: 100%. I need all the stopping power I can get.
- Front Brake Bias: I shifted it forward a bit, to around 56%.
Finally, Tyres. Baku is also notorious for tyre wear. I opted for lower pressures to try and extend their life.
- Front Right Tyre Pressure: Around 22.5 psi.
- Front Left Tyre Pressure: Same, 22.5 psi.
- Rear Right Tyre Pressure: 20.5 psi.
- Rear Left Tyre Pressure: 20.5 psi.
After all that tweaking, I hit the track again. Man, what a difference! The car felt so much more responsive and predictable. I was able to push harder and carry more speed through the corners. I even managed to shave a few seconds off my lap time!
This setup worked for me, but it might not be perfect for everyone. It really depends on your driving style. But hopefully, this gives you a good starting point for your own Baku setup adventures. Good luck, and see you on the track!
